Travel With Candace

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Carnival season continues on Guadeloupe!  Sunday’s costume theme was “Konstitityon,” which calls for members dressing in long, african-style robes of green red, or yellow.  This represents unity of all people of African descent and pays tribute to the roots and ancestry of those living on the island. This Sunday we marched to the neighboring city of Abymes, a walk of about 6 miles.  Part of the march traversed the freeway, slowing traffic to a halt in both directions for about 15 minutes.  The brief video above was taken at this point while I was marching.  It shows the masses participating in the event.

The brief video below was taken just before a pause.  Two 20 minute pauses are taken during each march and traditionally the musicians stop marching and play to a frenzy before breaking. The participants in the clip are chanting the refrain of a Creole song that refers to someone being sick, particularly in regards to their head or mind:

“Hey hey, malade! Malade a tet a-w.  Malade a tet a-w.”

Just a another tidbit from the Akiyo Mas!

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On Saturday Akiyo accepted an invitation from Petit Bourg to parade through their city.  We took two buses full of Akiyo members dressed in the “Code Barre” costume that was skipped to honor Haiti.  Petit Bourg is on Basse Terre, which is markedly more hilly than the area we usually travel.  The march was strenuous to say the least, and that’s without the pouring rain that began about half-way through.  We made it through to the end though and partook in some municipally sponsored food and drink.  Next week’s invitational will take place Saturday evening in St. Francois.

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“Mas” on the 25th was pretty much back to normal after the stoic march in honor of Haiti.   People were in good spirits and seemed to be enjoying themselves.  The costume wasn’t anything elaborate; members were to wear Akiyo t-shirts of various colors.  We marched from Akiyo’s headquarters or “local” down through the apartment complexes and main plaza as well as the Marina district of Point a-Pitre before returning to our starting point.  I’d say it was a good 5 miles, and my legs are a bit sore.  Next week we’ll have two marches, one on Saturday (where we’ll be guests of the city Petit Bourg) and one Sunday per usual.

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Gosier is the tourist hub of Guadeloupe, and as such, the city’s main beach can be a bit crowded, Keep driving past the town center and you’ll come to the beach of St. Felix, a quarter of Gosier. This beach is never over-crowded and features picnic tables and light hiking among seaside foilage.  There are no toilet or shower facilities on site, but there is a mobile windsurfing academy.St. Felix beach is a local windsurfing capital and one can regularly observe surfers of all levels traversing the water.  Fun Kid’s Academy both rents and sells equipment on site and holds regular classes on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays.  Private lessons are available by appointment any day of the week.Whether exploring a new watersport or seeking some peace and quiet to accompany sun and sand, the beach at St. Felix is a worthwhile, less-travelled destination.Editor’s note:  Fore more information on windsurfing contact Fun Kid’s Academy, 0690 30 29 28 (Some English spoken)

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Amazing fresh fish are one of great benefits of being on an island.  My favorite fish to date is Balaou (pictured); these smallish fish are as tasty as they are fun to eat.   Balao are commonly available at any fresh fish market or stand at between 4 and 5 Euro per kilo.  They average from about eight to ten inches length but can grow as large as 16.  As far as preparation goes, a number of Balao are marinated in a mixture of lime juice, vegetable oil, garlic and onion before being fried whole.  They’re topped off with a grilled onion mixture and served with rice and lentils or mixed vegetables and starches (yams, green bananas. Carrots cabbage, etc.) The result is a flavorful and hearty meal that is perfect after a day of hiking or a few hours before “Mas.’

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Just to the right of the main produce market in Point-a-Pitre you’ll find Rue Pyéton, the street where Akiyo drummers assemble Saturdays to sing and play traditional Gwo Ka music. A singer recounts Creole songs of the call-and-respond variety accompanied by drums. Gwo Ka drumming usually involves three men, two on large drums and one on the smaller Djembe. The man playing the Djembe drum is the marker; he usually plays above the base rhythm (one of seven) maintained by the larger instruments. When people enter the crowd circle to dance, the marker mimics the dancers music in sound.

This gathering of musicians takes place on Rue Pyéton every Saturday – rain or shine, tourists or no tourists. It’s a cultural event in its purest form. Some regulars say it’s like church with members of a community that value Guadeloupe’s traditional culture coming together to fellowship and become enveloped in ritual song and dance. Whether or not one regards the event with as much fervor, it is definitely a Saturday destination. The music spans from 10:00 AM-3:00 PM, pausing for only moments at a time. Revelers can purchase local food and drink from nearby vendors as well as browse jewelry made from indigenous seeds, house wares made from calabashes, and custom clothing from local artisans.

As a commercial center and victim of urban sprawl, the city of Point-a-Pitre isn’t a place to spend all of your time if visiting Guadeloupe. However, if passing through the area on a Saturday, Rue Pyéton is a must see.

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While it’s usually a joyous and somewhat raucous affair, Carnival this week was a bit subdued. We dressed in all white with red and blue headdresses – the colors of the Hatian flag. We marched from Akiyo’s headquarters into the town center without music and continued on to complete our first tour of Point-a-Pitre accompanied only by drums. We must have marched 5 or 6 miles Sunday, evening as opposed to the usual three to four. About three miles into the march we did begin to sing, though again the songs were of a mournful air.

At the Carnival goup’s meeting the preceding Thursday, there was much debate as to whether “Mas” should be cancelled or continued with special attention paid to the Hatian struggle. What was clear is that feelings on the issue ran high. I have been following French and American news reports and when possible regarding events on-line. It is amazing how strongly people around the world are responding to the crisis in Haiti. As a Caribbean nation, the thoughts and prayers are especially palpable on Guadeloupe. Whether it be through schools, churches or cultural organizations associated with Carnival, people island-wide are set on paying their respects – honoring the dead and those who persevere.

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Carnival in Guadeloupe is an entire season.  The parades of various Carnival groups are known as “Mas.”  Mas begins the first Sunday of the New Year and continues weekly until the full-ledged Carnival takes place February 13-17, 2010.  Last year’s Carnival was overtaken by the national strike, so I’m expecting this year to be great.  Each week has a costume theme.  All costumes are handmade by participants.  Akiyo focuses on low-cost and simple costumes that are accessible for all. This Sunday was to be “Code-Barre,” or a prisoner uniform (pictured), but the theme has been changed to all white with red and blue headdress in honor of Haiti.  More on this topic Monday!

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Guadeloupe’s International Jazz Festival takes place each December in Pointe-a-Pitre.  The event draws a broad base of talented artists, some well-known and others ripe for discovery.  In 2007 I was lucky enough to see the great Hugh Masekela and it was a great show.  This year the event has been rebranded as the “IloJazz” (derived from the phrase Iles aux Jazz or “isles of jazz”).  It is billed as a “Carrefour des musiques créoles,” or “the crossroads of Creole music.”

The festival is taking place December 11-13, 2009.  As the festival features music seminars along with small and large scale performances, the venues vary.  Some performances will take place at Sonis an intimate venue with great acoustics.  The large performances will take place at the Place de la Victoire.

I have included a link to the festival site, but note that the line up is only accessible through Facebook.  As such, I’ve included a link to the event’s Facebook fan page as well as a list of the performances that have been announced.

Keep this festival in mind during current or future travels!

Event Site: http://www.ilojazz.com/Festival_International_IloJazz.html

Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Festival-International-IloJazz-Carrefour-des-musiques-creoles/180025281260?ref=mf&v=wall

IloJazz 2009 Program:

December 11, 2009: Alcemik Trio, Magik Malik Orchestra, and Mokhtar Samba (7:00 pm, Sonis - Abymes)

December 12, 2009: Tricia Evy Trio, Fal’frett (6:30 pm, Downtown Abymes)

December 13, 2009: Alain Jean-Marie & Gwadarama, Dave Valentin & The Tropic Heat Quintet, Roy Ayers (7:30, Place de La Victoire - Point-a-Pitre)

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Today marks the opening day of the Destination Guadeloupe Festival, an event aimed at raising awareness of Guadeloupe as an American vacation destination.  I’m so happy this event has been produced (though it doesn’t seem well promoted by Hubtone PR), as Guadeloupe’s increased visibility is my ultimate goal.The event features live performances as well as culinary and art exhibitions.  Artists featured include my friend  Francois Ladrezeau, Kriyolio and Joel Nankin to name a few.  Information on the event and its various venues can be found at the link below.  If you’re in town, check it out and report back!http://www.destination-guadeloupefestival.com/

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